Stories

Notes from people who went

Routes that worked, timings that did not, and the parts of Henan that never make the poster.

Five days, four cities, one rail line

A first-timer's route from Zhengzhou to Kaifeng, with the timing that actually works.

Mara Lindqvist · Contributing editor

Cliff roads, guesthouse breakfasts and the two hours before the tour buses arrive.

South of the Yellow River the landscape turns green, wet and slow.

A home cook, a bowl of pork filling and the correct number of pleats.

Contributor notes are edited for length and clarity. Sponsored or hosted trips are labelled at the top of the article.